Grenada for Christmas and New Year

9 December 2010 – 5 January 2011

Christmas lights at Sugar Mill roundabout (20)By the 12th we were finally ready, we paid the marina and untied most of the lines holding us to the dock. Jim was on the helm and suddenly said "There's something wrong with the steering." We quickly tied up again! He'd noticed a lot of play and a clunk if the wheel was moved quickly. This was worrying and we decided it would be better to get any problems sorted out in Grenada where we know there are good services. A friend, Richard (Phalarope) who is a mechanical engineer, came round to have a look and he and Jim came to the conclusion that the rudder bearings were worn  and should be replaced, and that a spacer was needed to take up slack in the steering pedestal.

We ordered the new bearings from England and a couple of days later we motored back round to Prickly Bay and had a chat with the boatyard about lifting out and having the work done. Being so close to Christmas nothing was going to happen now until after the New Year, so after a couple of days we motored back round to Mount Hartman Bay to join our friends there for Christmas.

The weeks around Christmas became very social with parties held by Dave on Persephone (American) and Ken and Lynn on Silverheels III (Canadian), we hosted a traditional English mulled wine and mince pie party on Impressionist, and Eric and Jackie on Compass Rose hosted a party after Christmas.

On Christmas Day itself we all dinghied round to Clarkes Court Bay Marina for a pot luck turkey and ham Christmas dinner for 50 cruisers, with everyone bringing a dish to share – the meat was delicious and plentiful, and there was a huge selection of vegetables, stuffings, a large pot of gravy, and a variety of desserts - we took home-made mince pies and some crackers (the first time we had seen any since leaving England) and had to explain to the non-English how to pull them.

For the New Year we and our friends booked in to "De Big Fish" in Prickly Bay with a bus to take us there and back. An excellent 3-course meal including a pig roast, tables were decorated and had noisemakers and streamers, and live entertainment with the Doc Adams group so the place was really rocking and everyone dancing. New Year was celebrated at 12.00 GMT (8.00pm local time) with Big Ben on the large screen TV as cruisers tend to early birds. It was a marvellous evening, and although we got to bed early we were woken up again at midnight with the fireworks, so we sat and watched them for our second New Year.

We wanted to go and see the Christmas lights at the Sugar Mill roundabout but each day we planned it had turned to rain, so finally on 5 January (the last day) Anne organised a group of us (10) to take the half-hour walk there. It was well worth it - the display was quite spectacular, extending all the way up the hill in a small park. On the way back we stopped at a Chinese restaurant for a lovely meal.

For more photos please click here

Grenada

18 August – 8 December 2010
Overlooking Clarkes Court Bay to Hog Island (we were anchored near the bridge)With Impressionist ready for sailing again, we departed the marina and had a short, but delightful, downwind sail along the south coast and anchored back in Prickly Bay.  We had purchased a new, more efficient wind generator – the Air Breeze – and needed the local workshop to design and fit a stainless steel support.  It's also very convenient here with easy access, either walking or on the local buses, to the chandlers, hardware stores, supermarkets and the capital St Georges, so we spent some time just doing minor jobs, especially making mosquito nets for the hatches and portlights (small opening windows) as we have been unable to purchase these off the shelf (design and photos on our web site (Boat Details – Modifications).

Grenada has the friendliest and most helpful people we have ever met; many of them have lived in or visited England, or have relations there, and it's very easy to end up chatting to a complete stranger for a half-hour. In St Georges one day we asked about a cobbler and the lady insisted on taking us right to him.

The local bus service is great - 15-seat mini-buses that will have 18 squeezed in when full, owned by the driver who usually has a "conductor" on board, each bus licensed to a particular route. They all run from the bus station in St Georges, departing when full (squashed in). Driver/conductor touts for business as they go along and pick up/drop off along the road as well as bus stops; they will divert from the route for an extra fee. Buses are cheap, noisy, friendly, fun and very frequent in the south-east.

Every morning (except Sunday) at 07.30 we listen to the Grenada cruiser net on channel 68 on the VHF radio. There is a different net controller each day, one of whom is the manager of the local chandlery, the remainder being volunteer cruisers.  The weather is read out (obtained via the internet); other sections include safety & security information, arrival & departure notifications, parts & services, cruiser events, "Treasures of the Bilge (buy and sell), and advertising by local businesses – it's a great source of information. Most cruisers also have their radios tuned to 68 whilst on the boat as it is also our primary means of communication.

A couple of weeks later we motored round to Mount Hartman Bay (the next bay) and anchored. It's a particularly calm bay with a very short dinghy ride to shore – very suitable as Jim's sister Margaret was due to fly out from England on 9 September to join us for three weeks.

The day after Margaret arrived she had recovered enough from the journey to join us on the Friday shopping bus to the local mall and supermarket. She was amazed to see so many imported English goods including some of the Waitrose Essentials range; they also have Branston Pickle, Marmite and English sausages – three goodies which we hadn't seen anywhere since leaving England three years before!

The next few days were intended for relaxing on the boat and some gentle swimming off a beach a dinghy ride away – that is apart from the pot luck dinner (bring a dish to share), the BBQ evening at the marina, the Sunday Mexican Train dominoes, the Monday bus to town where Patrick, our driver, treated us to jelly coconuts, and of course the Wednesday and Friday shopping bus to the mall where we developed a taste for the lovely banana bread with our coffee.

The middle of September we all went on a cruiser-organised trip with a dozen others to the Seven Sisters Waterfalls in the Grand Etang National Park rainforest. The views were marvellous on the way there and the rainforest was lovely with beautiful trees and flowers, including both cocoa and nutmeg trees. At the car park we each picked out a stick and our local guide led us on an hour long hike along a muddy and, in places, very steep track to get to the lower falls. Well worth it – the falls are lovely with a high fall into a large pool then a lower fall into the smaller pool. We all swam in the large pool – it was lovely swimming in fresh, cool water for a change. Anne leapt the lower fall then, emboldened by this, decided to join the group who were going further up to leap the higher falls. After a 20-minute muddy uphill scramble we reached the top fall. After a photo session those not leaping returned down the path. Our guide (who was excellent) at each fall showed us how to take off, how to leap and how to land, and helped us all through the fast Seven Sisters Waterfalls - 35ft fall and poolflowing water in the chute between two of the falls. For the smaller falls we landed in a seated position because of the limited depth, one we could shallow dive into the pool, but the last fall was 35ft high – scary, and we were supposed to land feet first and upright. Anne got this one badly wrong, landed in a seated position and stayed in the pool for a while to cool her badly stung thighs. Not only did she end up with severe bruising on her thighs but also had a bad back for a couple of weeks. In spite of that, it was a fantastic experience and she would quite happily do it all again.

On 19 September we took Margaret for a short sail round to Clarkes Court Bay where we dropped the anchor near Hog Island, this being convenient for local buses to St Georges (for Margaret and Anne's  girls' shopping trips) as well as evenings out at local restaurants and being nearer the beach for swimming.

We all wanted to go to Fish Friday at Gouyave – two streets of stalls cooking and selling locally caught fish every Friday, a "do not miss" evening in Grenada - but couldn't get a reply from the taxi firm which was known to organise a bus. In the end Anne organised her own – ending up with 22 people on two buses. We left early enough to see the scenery on the way up the west coast of Grenada and had a stroll around before the stalls got going – as this was low season it wasn't as busy as normal, but the atmosphere and food were still great and we had a marvellous evening.

Another day the three of us went on an island tour with CB Historical Tours. Clement, our driver, was full of fascinating information about the history and the island. He took us to St Georges, then to the last working nutmeg processing plant (most nutmeg trees were destroyed in Hurricane Ivan in 2004, it takes six years before replanted trees start producing), via the Leapers Leap where the native Caribs leapt to their deaths rather than submit to French rule, the Belmont Plantation for a fabulous lunch (unfortunately they are too busy making cocoa to run tours at present), to the River Antoine rum distillery with the last working watermill where they still make rum in the traditional fashion from locally grown sugar cane, returning through the Grand Etang rainforest – where it really rained heavily! Altogether a marvellous day out.

One evening we booked for dinner at The Little Dipper – to quote our pilot book "the best little restaurant in Grenada". We arrived at their own dinghy dock at dusk and climbed the lit path up the hill to the restaurant. We were the only people there (hence the need to book, otherwise they don't open). We sat on the veranda, the view across the bay was wonderful and our food was lovely. It started raining but we didn't want to leave the view, so we just pulled the table back a little way. As we left we were each handed a stick to help us down the now very slippery path. An enchanting evening!

We'd had a lot of fun and it felt very quiet after Margaret's return to England. We went back to doing odd jobs around the boat, the usual shopping trips every week and the various social activities organised by cruisers. These included pot luck dinners, dominoes, the monthly book swap for charity at a local chandler, a kayak tug-of-war off the beach at Hog Island (we watched), cruiser cricket matches (we watched!) and Halloween BBQ, and a cruiser organised visit to The Aquarium restaurant with swimming and marvellous snorkelling off its beach – and the food was excellent too.

Towards the end of October we began to think about moving north as the hurricane season is normally over by this time.  BUT right at the end of October a tropical depression formed off South America which turned very quickly into Hurricane Tomas and headed straight towards the Windward Islands (south-eastern Caribbean), it's forecast track being possibly Trinidad, Tobago, Grenada or the Grenadines - right where we were!  All the boats prepared, removing awnings etc, some put out an extra anchor, we let out a lot more chain and cleaned the propeller just in case we needed the engine. Everyone had an anxious few days, but Tomas turned further north, causing a great deal of damage and loss of life in Barbados, St Lucia and St Vincent, whilst the south of Grenada had a flat calm and no rain!

On 18 November, we moved round into Mount Hartman Bay to clean the bottom of the boat in the clearer waters there. This involves a lot of diving with breath held, and scraping as much as possible until you surface because of natural buoyancy in the extremely salty water. An extremely exhausting job carried out over several days and only in calm weather.

With a clean bottom, we left the bay on 6 December and had a lovely sail round to St Georges where we took a berth in the marina for a few days so that we could clean and check the anchor chain, refit the windvane, and do a last bit of shopping before leaving Grenada to head north for the winter.
We have thoroughly enjoyed our summer here and intend returning next summer after a winter spent cruising the eastern Caribbean islands.

For more photos please click here

Grenada & Carriacou

24 June – 17 August 2010

St Georges (4)After a day sail, again with variable light winds, we anchored in the late afternoon in Hillsborough Bay, Carriacou which is part of the Grenadines chain of islands but belonging to Grenada, another ex-British island.

In the morning we went ashore to check in with Immigration and Customs, and do some shopping for provisions.  After lunch we motored around to Tyrrel Bay, the main anchorage on the island for cruising yachts.  There is one road along the waterfront with a couple of very small mini markets, some services for yachts, and a few bars and restaurants.

To one side of the bay is a ‘hurricane hole’ – a very protected, shallow stretch of water surrounded by mangroves and with a small entrance.  Normally not used for anchoring, but if a hurricane heads towards the island, the yachts go in here, with the shallowest draft furthest in, anchor at the stern and are tied to the mangroves at the bow.  The crew should then go to a hurricane shelter ashore.  We went in with the dinghy to have a look round; it’s a very beautiful and peaceful place.

One of the restaurants had a steel band night whilst we were there, so we joined some of the other cruisers – old and new friends - for a meal and to enjoy the music.

After just three nights here we departed for Grenada in good conditions for a sail down the east coast to the anchorages on the south, where we anchored in Prickly Bay.  We stayed for a week, finding our way about, checking out the supermarkets, yacht services and chandlers, and with a day out in the capital, St Georges where we were amazed to see old red British telephone boxes.  We also contacted Richard & Claire on Phalarope who had wintered in La Rochelle with us but we had last seen in the Spanish Rias.  We had a lovely reunion, meeting for coffee in the local shopping centre, but ended up staying for lunch and talked for 4 hours!

We then motored the short distance to Clarkes Court Bay where we had booked Impressionist into the marina for our trip to England to visit family and friends.  Here, again, we met with friends old and new.  There’s a lively social scene for the cruisers, particularly in the bar of the marina, with a weekly burger night, fish & chip supper, special lunches for events such as the football final, a film night, and events run by cruisers such as Sunday “Mexican Train Dominoes”, watercolour classes, language classes etc.

We prepared the boat for leaving it, removing everything possible from deck in case of bad weather, and flew to England for a three-week visit to family and friends.  It was lovely to see everyone, especially Anne’s new baby nephew and our grandchildren, but it was hectic and towards the end we were very tired.

On our return we had to start putting everything back in place on the boat.

A couple of days after our return to Grenada the main events of the Carnival (a month-long event) took place.  We went with our friends, Ken & Lynn, on a bus with other cruisers to St Georges to watch the main “Pretty Mas” parade, followed in the evening by the “Monday Night Mas”.

For a short video of the carnival please click here

We continued with sorting out the boat and getting some jobs done, but on Anne’s birthday we dinghied over to the Whisper Cove restaurant for a delicious T-bone steak and live music.  On our return the torch was laid down on the pontoon for a moment and rolled straight off into the water – horror, this was our best torch, the new LED Maglite.  The next morning Anne dived into the chocolate coloured water (run-off from the rum distillery) – and found it because it was still lit up.  It has been washed and dried, and works perfectly – a very impressive 10 out of 10 for Maglite!!

For more photos please click here

Martinique, St Lucia, Bequia

23 May – 23 June 2010

Rodney Bay, Gregory fruit seller (6)Another overnight passage with variable light winds meant we motorsailed for part of the way.  We went straight to the anchorage at Le Marin in the south of Martinique, another French island, as we only intended a short stay to pick up a new Ship’s Registration document (to be couriered to the Poste Restante address at the Post Office), and to buy some extra anchor chain as the length we had was too short.

The town of Le Marin is spread along the bay, the older part in the centre with the newer commercial areas at the ends, with dinghy docks in the various parts.  We visited all of them, checking out the good French supermarkets, small shops, bars and restaurants, and yacht services including three or four chandlers.

We very soon met a lovely American couple, Dave & Michelle on Daniell Storey, who are descended from some of the original pioneers to America.  They introduced us to friends of theirs on other boats and we had a very sociable few days.  As we are all travelling south for the summer we will keep bumping into each other.

We moved into the marina for a couple of nights so that we could attach the new chain and hammer in the length markers – very pleased to have this as we had been limited to anchoring in only 10 metres and some anchorages we couldn’t use as they are deeper than this.

Our registration document arrived – DHL, the courier company contacted us to say that the Post Office wouldn’t sign for it.  (They had signed for couriered packages in France!)  They asked for another address, and we suggested the marina office; this was no problem, they had delivered there before and would put it on the van again the next morning.  Late the next morning Anne went ashore to see it it had arrived – the marina office had gone; even the Portakabin it had been in was half demolished.  She asked around and found the new location in a new building at the opposite end of the marina, but it wasn’t there.  She went back to the boat, phoned DHL to give them the new location – who said it had been delivered.  Back to the new marina office, and one of the staff was just bringing it in from her car.  10/10 for the DHL service and marina staff.  We were very relieved as the old document was now out of date.

Whilst waiting for suitable weather for the next passage we got on the local bus for a day out in the capital, Fort de France.  A busy commercial town with lots of small shops and industrial parks on its outskirts.  Not particularly attractive, but we came across the old library which was a fantastic building – unfortunately we had forgotten the camera.

After a short passage to Rodney Bay at the north of St Lucia, an ex-British island, we went into the marina.  Whilst we were still tying up the boat, a couple on another boat were waving at us - to our great delight they were John and Ann of Moonlight who we had last seen in Madeira, nine months ago.  We had a long chat, catching up on news.  The evening was spent at a BBQ for the cruisers where we also saw other American and Canadian cruiser friends and made some new ones.

After three nights and some jobs done on the boat, we moved out to the anchorage.  On shore one day we had an unexpected trip into the capital, Castries, as John passed us and offered a lift since he was picking up Ann and her mother in town.  He dropped us by the large market where we had fresh coconut – drink the milk first through straws then ask the seller to chop it in half, he chops part of the shell off to make a spoon to dig out the soft flesh – it was absolutely delicious.  We had a meander around (no camera with us) then stopped by the market for a lovely lunch of local food; the people on the next table started talking to us and we found they were also cruisers, two Dutch couples, also anchored in Rodney Bay.

To avoid another overnight passage, on 12 June we did the short trip to Soufriere on St Lucia where we took a mooring buoy for the night, then left at dawn the next morning for a day sail to Bequia, again an ex-British island, in The Grenadines where we anchored in Princess Margaret Bay near the main town, Port Elizabeth.

The next morning we started to lift the dinghy to where we inflate it on deck; Anne promptly screamed in agony as her back went.  She crawled below onto the berth, and then wasn’t able to leave the boat for a week.  Jim had to inflate and launch the dinghy, and lower the outboard engine on his own; he did all the shopping, cooking, washing up etc.

Finally able to get ashore, we went to the Bequia Book Club to help the children with their reading.  A request for help had been broadcast a couple of days earlier on the Coconut Net, a Caribbean-wide net on the long distance radio (SSB) for cruisers to let others know where they are and keep in contact.  The club is run by a local woman, Cheryl Johnson, an amazing woman with an immense personality who runs this reading club every Saturday.  About 50 children turned up, who were divided into groups of similar ability.  Each group had a book, from which each child read a page or so in turn – our job was to help with difficult words and oversee the discussion about the book that followed.  Two or three children from each group in turn then gave a presentation on the book to the rest of the club.  The enthusiasm of the children to read and the details they had picked up from the book, in spite of some very quiet and fast reading, was amazing.  This was followed by drinks and cake and general chatter between the children and visiting cruisers, who included some children as well.  We will certainly go along to help next time we are in Bequia as it was great to give something back to the local population and a most marvellous experience for us.

After another few days Anne was fit to sail again and we set off for Carriacou.

For St Lucia photos please click here

Les Saintes, Guadeloupe

11 – 21 May 2010

Les Saintes (2)After an overnight passage with variable, but fairly light, winds with some motoring, we anchored in the bay off Bourg des Saintes, the main town in Les Saintes – a small group of islands which are part of Guadeloupe.

We intended staying here for just three or four days, but the weather turned against us and it was 10 days before we were able to depart.  But if you have to get stuck somewhere this is a beautiful place for it – the small town is charming, the large well-protected bay is beautiful and the scenery is lovely.

We didn’t do any sightseeing around the island, but we went ashore every day for some basic shopping in the small mini-markets, and often just sat at a cafe with a coffee or ice cream and watched the world go by.  It was mostly a very restful time.

We did need to get some petrol for our dinghy’s outboard motor and, after asking around, found that there is no petrol station in the town – the only available fuel is at a dock in another bay, accessible by a road over the hill and then a path.  So we thought it a lovely day for a walk, took the can in a knapsack and set off as directed.  We got to the next bay and found the beginning of the path.  There were occasional marks on the route, but for a number of different paths but for a while we followed the right one.  Then we arrived at a chainlink fence across our way; we couldn’t see the path at all so we guessed, found a path and followed it… almost to the top of the hill – great views, but the wrong path!!  Backtracked to the fence and hailed the young men inside for directions; they very kindly sent a boy out to show us the way.  The right path was mostly across rock and invisible if you didn’t know it, but we eventually arrived at the fuel dock – hot, tired and very thirsty.  We filled our can, bought some water to drink, and made the return journey much faster.

A few days later we decided we needed to get some diesel for the boat’s engine – this time we motored round and anchored in the bay, and transported the fuel by dinghy to the boat, returning to the main anchorage the same afternoon.

We also needed to fill our water tank whilst here – the only place was from the yacht club.  You pay in advance, tie up to their mooring buoy which has a hose attached and then radio the club to turn on and off the water.  As it was a set price for as much as you could take we filled up the tank, every container on board and all the buckets – so we did the laundry that day.

Once the weather became favourable for an overnight passage to Martinique we went on our way, but look forward to returning again next season.

For more photos please click here

St Martin/Sint Maarten

15 April – 9 May 2010

Carnival, Philipsburg, Sint Maarten (108)After a good passage which started with very light winds but ended with a few hours of great sailing, we anchored in Marigot Bay, the capital on the west coast of St Martin (again, part of France).  We checked in and the next day went through the bridge into the huge sheltered lagoon where we anchored on the French side of the border.  The island is half French and half ex-Dutch (now independent) and the border runs through the middle of the lagoon.  There is no border control moving from one side to the other either on the roads or by dinghy, but you must anchor your yacht in the waters of the country you have cleared into.

Another friend we made in Las Palmas, Mike on Tuntsa, was also here and it was great to see him again.  He is an American who does the Atlantic circuit every year: St Martin – Azores – Canaries, working from his boat and selling navigation software.

This was the first time we came across a cruiser net.  This happens early every morning (except Sunday) with a resident cruiser acting as net controller.  Any cruisers listening can respond to the various categories: arrivals & departures, security information, buy and sell, what’s on, and any information required by cruisers.  We reported our arrival, requested info about local supermarkets etc, and joined in various social activities advertised on the net.  Because of it, Ken & Lynn on Silverheels III introduced themselves and showed us around – they have become very good friends of ours.

There’s a very lively cruiser social scene around the lagoon, but we also did some serious stuff – buying a new (larger) outboard motor for our dinghy and kitted out with various bits and pieces at the local DIY and electrical stores and two very large chandlers.

We were fortunate that the Carnival took place in Philipsburg, the capital of Sint Maarten, during our stay.  We took the local bus down there with Ken & Lynn for the main parade – lots of exotic feathered costumes, live steel bands on every lorry – noisy and great fun.  For video of the carnival please click here

We also had a lovely day out round the island – we hired a car with Ken & Lynn so that we could all do some heavy shopping, then had a lightning tour around the island, ending with a lovely BBQ meal overlooking the beautiful bay of Grand Case.

Towards the end of our month, it was lovely to have our friends Manu & Michelle on Teepee arrive – it was great for us all to get together again with Mike on Tuntsa.

By now we had finally made the decision to head south to Grenada (rather than north to the US) for the hurricane season, these being the summer months from June/July to the end of October.  We had booked our flights for a visit to the England in the middle of July and a secure marina in Grenada to leave the boat.  As we wanted to be in Grenada by the end of June it was time for our departure.

For more photos please click here

Guadeloupe and the US Virgin Islands

22 March – 13 April 2010

St James Bay (1) Our first port of call after the Atlantic crossing was Point a Pitre in Guadeloupe (a department of France, so still in the EU and using the Euro) where we stayed in the marina for a few days to rest, catch up with emails, fill up with water, do a lot of laundry and buy fresh food.  We were pleased that after 27 days at sea we still had plenty of dry and tinned food, six 5-litre containers and a quarter tank of water remaining.

We had an email from some friends we had made in Las Palmas, Manu & Michelle on Teepee, who had crossed a few weeks before us.  They were in Les Saintes (part of Guadeloupe), a small group of islands nearby, so we sailed down there for a brief reunion with them and met one of their friends who gave us useful recommendations for the USVI.

We stayed just the one night then set off on the 27 March for a 2-day crossing to the US Virgin Islands as Jim’s son and his wife, Rob & Chris, were flying out to meet us for Easter.  We had a good wind for most of the crossing and arrived at Charlotte Amalie in St Thomas on 29 March and anchored in St Thomas Harbour.

We found that Charlotte Amalie is a major cruise ship destination and full of ‘duty free’ shopping malls. Although downtown has some attractive old buildings, they are full of jewellers and souvenir shops.  It is not somewhere we would recommend for a holiday.

A couple of days later we noticed that some of our rigging holding up the mast (which had all been replaced in Las Palmas) had broken strands.  This was a major problem and we would be unable to sail at all until the defective wires were replaced.  We immediately contacted a local rigger and arranged for the work to be carried out in a few days time.  We also emailed the rigger, Alisios Sailing Center in Las Palmas, with photographs; he has admitted liability and promised a partial refund, but so far has not refunded the credit card.  We are now taking this up with the credit card company.

In the meantime, Rob and Chris arrived; we stayed in the harbour for a couple of days so they could have a look around Charlotte Amalie, then we motored to Christmas Cove, a bay we had been recommended at Great St James Island about 10 miles away.  It is the most beautiful place with wonderfully clear turquoise water, very popular with yachts and day trip boats.  We stayed a couple of days enjoying the swimming and snorkelling on the reefs.  Rob taught us both to snorkel – we were amazed by the tropical fish and coral, and we even saw Stingray and Eagle Rays swimming across the bottom of the bay.

We then motored back to Charlotte Amalie to spend a night in a marina to have the defective rigging replaced, fill up with water and buy provisions.

Once everything had been sorted out we made the short 20 mile passage to the next main island, St John, USVI and anchored off Cruz Bay.  Rob & Chris wanted to spend a couple of nights ashore, so they found a guest house and we went round to a better anchorage in Great Cruz Bay where we could easily pick up a bus to the main town, Cruz Bay.  This is much more ‘Caribbean’ and a nice place to spend a couple of days.

Rob & Chris joined us on the boat again in Maho Bay on the north side of St John.  This is in the National Park (much of St John is National Park) and is a very beautiful area.  We spent a couple of nights here on a mooring buoy – these are provided to protect the coral from anchors.  We had a marvellous time in Maho Bay, Francis Bay and a walk through to Leinster Bay, again with great swimming and snorkelling surrounded by magnificent scenery.

Rob & Chris’s time had passed too quickly and we had to return to Charlotte Amalie, with a lunch stop in Christmas Cove for a last swim, for their flight back to England.  A couple of days later the wind came from the west and north - unusual for the Caribbean but perfect for a passage east to St Martin – so we departed the USVI after a three week stay.

For more photos please click here

Atlantic Crossing

23 February – 22 March 2010

IMGP3388 After the 4th time of provisioning for the trip we eventually had a short weather window and left on the 23rd February, but had to motor for the first 30 hours (there was little wind) to get far enough south to miss the next lot of bad weather coming across the Canaries. Because we were now so late we didn’t have time to stop in the Cape Verde Islands which was disappointing.

The first couple of days we both took anti-seasickness remedies, but after that we were both fine. We followed a watch system during the night of 4 hours on and 4 hours off, keeping ourselves awake at night with coffee and listening to podcasts on the Ipod. In the day we were occupied with cooking, washing up, a small amount of essential clothes washing when calm, sail changes, read, did puzzles, or just took turns to nap if we were tired.

The second evening of the trip we contacted Herb on the long range radio. Herb is a Canadian who has provided weather and routing information to Atlantic sailors for many years. We spoke to him nearly every day of the crossing and were very thankful for his assistance. He advised the best route to avoid the bad weather between the Canaries and Cape Verdes, then took us south to avoid the very light winds which this year were experienced on the normal trade winds route. The reception was quite bad so we got involved a few times with relaying other boats’  information to Herb when he couldn’t hear them.

The wind varied quite a bit although was never bad. We had a couple of days early on with the wind directly behind when we were able to fly twin headsails, but poling the 2nd one out on the main boom didn’t work very well, especially once the winds became relatively light. We had to change sail quite a lot as the furling genoa is too heavy for light winds, but the lightweight genoa is very old and not strong enough to carry in the slightly stronger winds. It did in fact tear where it was very worn and Anne had to make a repair halfway across the Atlantic.  Our best day’s run was 140 miles and the worst day was just 73 miles.

The first few days we saw quite a few ships as we were close to the shipping lanes down the cost of Africa. Later, after we passed the Cape Verdes, a fishing boat called us up on the radio for a chat – he must have been bored having been at sea for a long time. Otherwise we went several days at a time without seeing anything at all.

We tried trolling a fishing line. The first time we lost the lure and hook, we think a big fish pulled it off. After that we tried with a stronger attachment, but we didn’t catch anything and subsequently gave up trying to fish.

We had found one or two flying fish on deck, but one night Anne was startled as she was hit on the back when she had gone down into the boat for coffee – a flying fish was at her feet! It was only about 4” long but had flown across the cockpit, under the sprayhood and down inside the boat. 

Highlights were the pod of pilot whales a short distance off and the large pod of Atlantic dolphins that swam and played with the boat for about half an hour.

Most of the time the swell was quite small so the rolling of the boat wasn’t bad, but on one or two days a stronger wind and bigger swell made it just too difficult to cook and we had one of our “easy” meals – just heating something up in a saucepan. Towards the end of the crossing it was so hot that all we wanted was cold food – pasta or potato salad with cold meats, tinned fish or eggs.
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After 27 days - a fairly slow trip – we finally sighted land and made landfall on 22 March 2010 at Guadeloupe in the Caribbean. By this time Jim had a beard – we had been careful with our water to make it last, so Jim didn’t shave at all on the trip.  He thought it looked rather dashing, but nobody else agreed so a few days later it came off!

For more photos please click here and for video please click here

Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

January – 22 February 2010
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We found that in Spain Christmas Day is not very important. The coming of the Three Wise Kings is the big event here as the children write their present lists to them rather than Father Christmas and receive their presents on the 12th day of Christmas. The Kings arrived by boat across the harbour to an enormous and excited welcoming crowd in the morning of the 11th day. Later on a group of us went to watch the procession through the town with loads of decorated floats and costumed participants all throwing sweets to the huge crowds of onlookers. At the end of the procession rode the Kings on camels, each with their own large entourage, all throwing sweets and receiving present lists from the very excited children who were held up by their parents. It was great fun and an absolutely marvellous atmosphere. After this we had a meal then wandered around the crowded older parts of town, where the craft fair and the shops were all still open, and on to the concert in front of the Cathedral which started at midnight. It was all still very busy when we left at 1am but we had had a marvellous evening and were tired. 

Click for video of the Three Kings procession

By 6 January we had prepared for the Atlantic crossing, we had provisioned and were ready to leave, intending to stop in the Cape Verde Islands for a week or two before crossing to the Caribbean. Jim switched the engine on for a final check – a worrying clunk and a few minutes later we found we had water coming into the boat; the shaft seal was damaged!! We could only obtain the spare part from England; it arrived about 10 days later so we had the boat hauled out on shore, made the repair and sorted out one or two other problems which we subsequently found, antifouled the hull and returned to the marina.

We then had to wait for reasonable weather to start the crossing.  So far this year there had been an unusually high proportion of south-westerly winds and high swells caused by the same bad weather that northern Europe was experiencing.  Whilst waiting we hired a car and spent 3 days visiting different parts of the island - the beaches and sand dunes in the south and some of the interior including a cave village and La Roche Nuebe, the highest point on the island. We were lucky to have bright sunshine for this and had the most fantastic views across the island and to Tenerife.

We also ended up staying in Las Palmas for Carnival – a fantastic month-long festival of parades, competitions and parties. Not only the participants in the parades, but many (perhaps half) of the onlookers, were in fancy dress – in particular, the men here love to cross dress for Carnival, the the most popular competition being for the Drag Queen with totally outrageous costumes. The parties didn’t seriously get going until around 1am and continued for the rest of the night – great for the younger ones around, but we just wanted our bed by midnight!


Click for video of the main Carnival parade

Unfortunately we were unable to recover the photos which we lost when the hard drive failed, but the video was still on DV tape. For some poor quality stills from video please
click here



 

Canaries

February 2010 - Currently in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria. 
Unfortunately the hard drive failed on our computer a few days ago and we lost all the photos and blog entries written for the Canaries before we could post them. Hopefully we'll be able to get the data recovered from the old drive once we get to the Caribbean or the USA and be able to update the blog.
We were ready to set off across the Atlantic early in January but damaged our shaft seal the day before departure.  Having obtained the spare part from England and made the repair, we have since been waiting for reasonable weather to start the crossing.  So far this year there has been an unusually high proportion of south-westerly winds and high swells. Tuesday 23 February is now looking good for departure. Hopefully the next update will be from the Caribbean.